The brush used to apply the paste that strengthens the yarn is made from leaves of coniferous trees grown in Kashmir - this ensures the perfect density of the yarn
The singular texture of the Kota saree sets it apart and gives it rare grace.
Made out of a unique blend of cotton and silk, Kota Doria sarees are gorgeous, lightweight yet durable. They are known for their trademark fine chequered pattern called ‘khat’; each khat is made of eight cotton and six silk yarns interspersed. It is the difference in the fineness of the fibres of cotton and silk that creates this unique striped pattern within the fabric.
These sarees were first woven in the city of Mysore, which is why they are also known as Kota Masuria or Masuria Malmal. It was the Mughal army general Rao Kishore Singh who is said to have persuaded the Mysore weavers to travel to Kota through the late 17th and early 18th centuries, and settle there.
Usually woven in white, the sarees are then dyed. The threads may be dyed prior to weaving to create special designs. Block prints or zari work too show up on Kota sarees. To ensure strength, traditionally onion juice and/or rice paste was smeared on the yarns. Even today, it’s the detailed process involved in creating the Kota saree that makes it truly special.